The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences during the fiesta.” – Ernest Hemingway, “The Sun Also Rises”
The warm beaches of Northern Spain greeted me from outside the portholes of the Ryanair from Dublin, as inviting waves welcomed me in. Upon arrival in Santander, Spain I picked up the hired Fiat 500 Convertible, found a pork shank at Locutorio Azul y Oro, and was off to rendezvous with my buddy, Matt, in Bilbao.
After a short delay in Bilbao due to airfare, we began the journey to Pamplona… it is important to note that we missed the opening-day ceremonies, which begin at the Mercaderes and include the procession of San Fermin. By the time we had arrived, the wine had been flowing and the crowds were unbelievably maddened. I’ve ventured to Bourbon Street and Las Vegas more times than I care to remember, and I’ve never seen an environment quite like this before… utter chaos, but everyone was in such high spirits.
Although the Austrians lay claim to the energy drink phenomenon, championed by Red Bull… It could be surmised that the Spanish (and their subsequent love of bulls) pioneered the spirit. While millenials today drink RBV (Red Bull & Vodka), the Spanish have been consuming the concoction of Kalimotxo for years. A simple solution to the very real need to stay up all night, and still consume copious amounts of Red Wine, these Spaniards simply mixed a caffeinated soda with the fermented grapes of choice to create… Kalimotxo, and it has been fueling the party ever since.
A quick power-nap (and being extremely mindful to not consume too much Kalimotxo!) and we were ready to run! The first day of the festival saw a nervous crowd, and we made damn certain to be right up at the very front! The bulls are kept in a pen, approximately fifty meters from the start of the runners… and for good reason, as that fifty meters is at an extremely steep incline. In the minutes leading up to the rockets being fired, the traditions of the San Fermin Festival, the chanting, the singing, and the people celebrating their culture are live and in full effect. The crowds wave their rolled up newspapers in unison as they chant/pray to San Fermin to be safe during the run. This is followed by an eerily beautiful solo song from a woman, before the cheers erupt and the adrenaline begins to flow.
‘I woke to the sound of the rocket exploding’
The bulls are a great equalizer. As the clock draws nearer to the top of the hour, the people who made their way to the San Fermin statue, and wanted to see things up close begins to grow thin, and you’re left with the thrill-seekers… those of us crazy to flirt with the fifteen-hundred pound fuming beasts of death that barrel down the city’s narrow streets. The rockets begin to fire. As we looked around, everyone was internally preparing. Some jump, some stand staring stoic, some maniacally laugh… all run.
**I got the above (3) photos from the San Fermin website, I did not take those (3) photos, or the video below… all other pictures are my own.
A video posted from San Fermin… we are visible around the 0:25 mark.
“You know it makes one feel rather good deciding not to be a bitch.” – Ernest Hemingway
Feelings of elation, and chants from the thousands in the crowd were aplenty as the bulls made it to the ring. We set out to accomplish the 875-Meter course from the very beginning to the very end, and accomplished that goal. We did not get gored or trampled, but realized how much of a gamble it is to run. It can be assessed that perhaps the most dangerous factor in the running of the bulls is not the bulls themselves, but your fellow runners. Many people cower in fear, and attempt to flee the path of the animals, leading to congested corners, unexpected blockages, and poorly coordinated runners tripping, falling, and piling-up. Don’t be that guy. Run in the middle when you can, and don’t get run over by a bull. Communicate with your fellow runners, and dammit… relish the thrill of accomplishing one of the greatest rushes on the planet.
After the race… the day is just beginning. What we did following the race in part two…