After leaving the Border and surveying Los Algodones, I headed for my last stop in California… The Center of the World. It runs on an honor code, and is a unique tribute to the history of mankind.
Jacques-André Istel and his wife, Felicity (who the town is named after) created this site originally as the Hall of Fame of parachuting, but it has gained notoriety for its Museum of History in Granite, Eighteen granite monuments include eight monuments to the History of Humanity, the History of Arizona (2010), the History of French Aviation (2002), the History of the French Foreign Legion (2003) the History of the United States of America, and a Marine Corps Korean War Memorial, of which Jacques served in.
This man lives an incredible life. After leaving active duty, He had a brief stint as an investment banker, before seeing the vast potential in free-fall parachuting. He quickly established a business and began educating people on parachuting.
In 1956 Free Fall was illegal in the United States Armed Forces. Istel wrote Headquarters Marine Corps outlining the benefits, and was ultimately awarded a contract to train, thus becoming the creator of “High Altitude, Low Opening” free fall tactics used by the most elite military units worldwide, to this day. While serving as Commandant, General Charles C. Krulak declared, “we are a better Corps today because of Jacues-Andre Istel.”
The Center of The World will surely stand the test of time, is so much more than a gimmicky “tourist” trap. and will exist as a testament to mankind. I set back out on the open road. I was treated to the training of what must have been the elite Weapons Tactics Instructors course from nearby Marine Corps Air Station Yuma. No matter how many times you see them, helicopters are always fascinating to watch in action.
I quickly crossed the California-Ariz border into Yuma, and decided to stop and read until a train appeared. For this particular track at the foot of Fort Yuma, it took about twenty minutes before a Union Pacific intermodal appeared. I ventured up the hill, to what was remaining of Fort Yuma, a prior strongpoint along the trail, and the Westernmost point of the state of Arizona. These days, it is owned by the Quechan Indian Tribe, who provide a small gift shop, and outstanding conversation.
I then got back on the highway, headed to link back up with the actual Butterfield Overland Mail Stagecoach route that defines this journey, located a few miles away. As you crest the mountain road you happen upon a stretch of highway dedicated to Jerry Garcia from one of the most influential American Rock Bands of all time, The Grateful Dead. I exited the highway near some unidentified ruins, and stopped nest to a livestock center, in order to air down the tires and re-enter the dirt.
From there, I quickly returned to the backroad world, linking back up with the trail along one of Arizona’s brilliant irrigation systems. I found a secluded area to establish camp, and then began clearing and breaking excess brush to serve as kindling for the fire.
I decided to cook some seasoned chicken and peppers I’d purchased at a carniceria back across the Californian border, it was superb. I dined under the stars, properly extinguished my cooking fire, and racked out for the night. Tomorrow would be my first full day in the Arizona backcountry.